Women's body image then and now

Body image has changed for women over time and anyone who pays attention to the ladies' fashion department knows. Looking at ads from all different time periods, the female gender has been told to gain weight and have curves, then lose weight to look like a store mannequin, all because of changing fashion trends.

This blog will include many ads from way back when that are not exactly nice to women, so if you are offended by them, just know that they are here to illustrate my point on changing body trends. They are here to show what society expected of women in that time period. Thank you for understanding.

From the Beginning

Starting from 1910 until now, let's dig into the changing trends.

The trend in 1910 was to have a tiny waist, referred to technically as a Gibson Girl.  A Gibson Girl body was a small waist with large hips and a soft body. Large curls were the usual touch, as well. It was a corset time period, but I could say that of a lot of eras. Being tall was a plus. 

1920 was a boyish era, and being short was now a plus. Smoking was a hot trend and having cleavage was discouraged. Naturally flat chest? You're in luck! Flappers are in, and so are attractive legs. 

And now we are back to having a waist in 1930. Add some more curve, but not as much as 1910. 

Increase bust size slightly and you have the trend down perfectly. 

1940s woman in torpedo bra

The 1940s began torpedo bras, so up that bust size to a ridiculous amount. Make your shoulders broader and make yourself 5'8". Soft became angular in this era. All this echoed the role of women taking over the factory work during the war. Soft was for home, not the factories. 

The hourglass shape started in 1950. Curves return, big time! Hip and butt padding was sold to achieve this look, should you not have the weight on you. Here we have Jessica Rabbit. Women were encouraged by ads in magazines to gain weight.  Big boobs were a thing. 

Twiggy, a stick of a model in 1960, started the exact polar opposite of Jessica Rabbit. Narrow hips, 5'6" height, anorexia galore, delicate features, and clothes hanging off you like you were a hanger are the trend. Weight loss time! This was just the beginning of the starving models that died at their own desire to be a twig. The goal was to have no stomach without the aid of a corset.

1970 rolls around and the flat stomach remains, just add a little more height. We're back to having B size boobs now. Spandex, a fabric that doesn't forgive easily, continued the fitness demand. Cigarettes are advertised for weight loss, too. 

1990s woman

1980 brings a continued love of flat stomachs. Being tall was a plus, once again, and a love for legs, again. Jogging and aerobics are a thing right now. Those cheesy exercise videos from the 80s were probably the start of those exercise weight loss DVDs you see now. 

Petite makes a comeback in the 90s, where small and boyish returns. Spanx were invented here. Low-fat diets were a trend. 5'7" is an average height that fits this era. Tall is out. 

2000 brought even more fitness and muscular abs. It seems that fitness never ends. Exposed midriff is a clothing trend here. Britney Spears fits in about here, if you want an example. 

The 2010 era is near to ending, so let's just spotlight that one. Butts were a big deal. Big butt? You fit the trend. Doesn't mention breasts, just butts, but I think the same concept applies to breasts. Listen to any music from 2010 and tally all the "butt" references you find, including images in music videos. You may just shock yourself with how much you ignored.

Ads and Society

Did you think that was the end? Far from it. I want to talk about the ads society puts in women's faces on TV, magazines, and media in general. I'm going to showcase the ads in every era in this section. If you're still reading, remember the warning above, about the ads not being particularly nice to women. 

1910 ads - 

The ads above are all real. You'll notice any images have a corsetted waist that looks really unhealthy and fat is the enemy. If one was bigger in body one was not in fashion or healthy, according to these ads.

1920 ads -

 Notice the lack of boobage and the ad for cigarettes aimed at women. Also, that fat was discouraged in both sexes.

1930 ads -

The ads here encourage weight gain and shape, and so many of the ads I'm not focusing on are about hygiene, but that can be another day's post.

1940 ads -

Being slim continues to be a trend. Also, every woman here has a noticeable waist.

1950 ads -

With these, you notice circle skirts are the fashion and that women were focused on men, that is, if you followed the fashion advice of these ads.

1960 -

 These women don't have a lot of shape, and as illustrated by the middle ad, we see that women with shape weren't trendy. Also, cigarettes "made you slim" according to the ad on the far right.

1970 -

Dodge charger 1970

The 1970s was a time of wanting bigger bustlines. Society wanted women with more on top.

1980 -

Once again, selling cigarettes to women continues. Also, women are wearing looser clothing and pants more often. A flat stomach pursuit is obvious by the far right ad, starring an actress from I Dream of Genie.

1990 - 

Midriffs were major here, so were legs. Two of these ads are Versace and both are midriff styles. Madonna on the far right is wearing a midriff with jeans, and in my opinion, looks nicer than the far left or center ad. 

2000 - 

 The one to the left is a "got milk" poster, you know, the ones everyone saw in the school cafeteria. This one looks less than innocent, I'd say given her open shirt and her position.

The one on the right is a magazine cover for a prom magazine. Most of the other ads were for makeup, the ads I didn't put here. Makeup could be another day's blog post subject.

2010 -

Dove Campaign

The women's health cover on the far left illustrates that fat is still the enemy and society still wants flat stomachs. The Dove campaigns affirm all body types, judging by the different tones and shapes on the picture. What I also notice is they all have waists and curves. We can't tell much about Ariana Grande on the far right. All I know is that she is fond of showing skin, another growing trend. 

My Point

Why all the ads? Well, here's the point I'm trying to make. The ads reflect the culture. The less sexist the time, the less sexist the ads. At this point in time sexist ads get nailed almost as soon as the debut because of feminists and more vocal women. I can't say the same for 1910-1960, however, and frankly, I'm appalled at what was told to women through those ads. Sexism is still out there, but compared to the eras before us, we did get somewhere.  

Sources:

https://greatist.com/grow/100-years-womens-body-image#8

Pictures:

my modern met                              etsy

stuff nobody cares about               messynessychic

tribupedia                                    harper's bazaar

web urbanist                                refinery 29

stanford research                          the rage

ebay                                              huffpost

witness2fashion                           billboard

sammy davis vintage                   women's health

pinterest                                       demilked.com

all that's interesting

cyberheritage

flickriver

flashbak

vintage clothes/fashion ads of 1950

vintage ad browser

representations of women and girls in the media

university of leeds

motor1.com

popscreen

ghost of the doll

ebid

picclick

Human Trafficking - protecting yourself and others

Sex trafficking has been going on for a long time and should stop. Today I want to inform you of what you can do to help victims of this awful crime and how to prevent yourself and others from being trafficked.

Let's start with an actual definition of what this crime is. It is slavery for the purpose of sex, labor, or organ harvesting, to put it simply. Several organizations rescue victims on a daily basis and protect them, such as Rahab Ministries, Rahab's Daughters, Children of the Night, and several other organizations you can give money to and volunteer at. There is also a hotline for this crime, seen above. Some of these organizations also help women out of prostitution (selling your act of sex on the street). 

Prevention

There are trainings on this topic at multiple places, so look around your area to see what's closest. Aside from that, here is what you can do. 

1. Say something if you see something - The police can't catch them if you don't report it, so report it. Kidnappings happen quickly and a professional kidnapper will have someone in their vehicle real quick. On top of that, this a crime that is done in groups. Say something before they are over the border!

2. Volunteer for/give to organizations - Anyone can do this, at any organization they choose. It's not hard to do and they appreciate the help. If you can't give time, give money or supplies for safe houses. 

3. Raise Awareness - Post the hotline on your social media, host events that broadcast it exists, and generally make people aware that it is still happening, so that they can take steps. It ripples across the population we interact with and creates a safer world when we look out for each other, and that starts with awareness.

The Possible Signs 

There are a large number of red flags to look out for, but not all of them mean human trafficking. The rule of logical deduction says The Rule of Three is a generally helpful rule. In other words, if you see one of these you may not want to jump to conclusions, but if you see three or more, say something.

- can't leave job or quit   - no financial control over pay   - physical injury/abuse  

- has an escort to speak for them   - fear/under someone's control   - untended health issues

- owe money and bound to repay   - moving/changing jobs often/suddenly  

 - unfamiliar with area they live in     - not working job originally promised 

- travels with minimal/inappropriate luggage  - no documentation/lack of control over documents

- provide sexual services in club/has manager  - labor/serve but never leave home/work  

- can't contact family   - not allowed social contact/religious services  - restricted freedom

- child engaged in sexual acts  - afraid of authorities  - forced work under bad conditions 

- excessively long hours for long periods of time

Additionally, they may not reach out for help for reasons of a threat toward their family, money issues, drug issues, twisted affection towards their handler, fear of deportation and law enforcement, mistrust, or not knowing how to get help. They also may not know they are being trafficked, probably in the case of young children. On top of that, they may not know the culture they were dropped into. 

Types of Trafficking

There are many different types of this crime, with different targets. It seems that our children are always targets, much like women, but LGBT are becoming targets, too. 

Forced labor is one type that has some subcategories. Those include debt bondage and involuntary domestic servants. If one owe's someone and they are working off their debt today, it is not normal. It was done legally way-back-when, but not now,and even then they were freed. In this case, they never pay it off and end up as slaves. The latter, involuntary servants, are trapped in a situation where they work for little or no pay and can't leave their employer. They are isolated and trapped, and most likely, abused. 

Sex trafficking is the most well known of all the categories. Through force or coercion, these people (they take all genders and ages) are exploited for sex. It happens in strip clubs, brothels, private homes, and several other places. They are often shipped off somewhere. Common targets are women, children, and LGBT individuals. Another sex category is commerical sexual exploitation of children (CSEC). Kids having sex with adults, in short, and being payed for it.

Child labor is, obviously, children being forced into labor. Bad working conditions, health risks, and they're probably badly cared for, too. The subcategories here are domestic work, sex, begging, illegal activities, illegal adoption, early marriage, and child soldiers. This all includes enslavement, too. Street kids are likely targets for some of this. Child soldiers are self-explanatory, but I'm talking about the details, anyway. If they are 17 or younger and are used for military purposes, they are child soldiers. Both genders are taken, so don't assume the girls aren't targets.

 Forced marriage is connected to multiple categories because it enables some of these things above to happen. Age matters not, just that an individual didn't consent to marry, but was forced to. In the case of children, it causes even more damage. It also allows someone to travel with their "husband/wife" or handler as a married couple and be forced into labor or the sex trade. 

Tactics of Human Traffickers

There are many tactics used to trap victims. Homeless runaways, immigrants, and abuse victims are common targets and can be easily taken in. Illegal immigrants are leveraged by lack of documentation quite often and homeless runaways are lured in for a warm bed or a job and end up forced into work or sex.  

Commonly, it starts with the promise of a good job, an opportunity, or a loving relationship. Other times it starts with kidnapping or substance abuse. Just like any emotionally and physically abusive relationship, they end up trapped and without a way to contact help. 

I mentioned before that this is a crime done in groups. It is also done individually. It happens in stores, malls, and parking lots, and is a great reason to go everywhere in groups (bathrooms included). 

Here are a few common tactics to look out for.

1. lured in by relationship - Also known as being abused and groomed for the trade

  2. fake job ads - Long story short, do your research before you go to your interview

  3. Cults  -  grooming a whole group of people for the trade all at once

4. drugged at a party - check your drinks for drugs and be careful what parties you go to

5. social media meet-ups  -  don't friend someone who you don't personally know, and don't meet them offline

6. sold by family - some people sell their kids to the trade

Abduction is rarely used, and mostly on street runaways, but it is out there. I mistrust going to malls and gas stations alone, personally. I even go to cosplay conventions with at least one person, my tall strong boyfriend and any other friends we want to take with us. I wrote a blog on self-defense and that can be connected directly to this one. 

I just gave you a lot of information, so here's the bottom line. To make a long story short, pay attention to your environment. Be careful who befriends you. Trust your gut. Think for yourself and do your research. Don't hit accept on friend requests you don't know. Don't accept strangers' drinks. Say something if you see something suspicious. 

Sources:

rahabsdaughters.org/

https://humantraffickingsearch.org/

https://polarisproject.org/victims-traffickers

bigeasymagazine.com/

http://www.bethejam.org/tactics

Pictures:

HHS.gov

the san diego union tribune

endslaverytn.org

polaris website

the history of the high heel

Some of you may not know that men once wore high heels as a status symbol. They were not created to torture women, contrary to popular belief.

A Brief History

They were worn in Persia, 15th Century, worn by soldiers to help secure their feet to stirrups. Created for men. Read that sentence again. That's right, ladies, these were for men first. They weren't created to oppress women. This trend spread to Europe, where male aristocrats used them to look taller and more sophisticated.

Greek actors wore them 2000 years ago, and the higher the cork platform heel the more important the character on the stage. 

Now we get to women's heels. 15th-17th century heels made European women tall, to the point that maids were sometimes used as crutches. These were hidden under skirts. Higher heels meant more cloth to the dress, a status symbol. 

1673 was the year King Louis XIV introduced red sole and heels, then restricted their use to nobles.
The color, another status symbol (see the trend?). 

You may not realize it, but chinese foot binding creates a similar gait (walking pattern) to modern high heels. Foot binding didn't really die out until early 20th Century. 

The 1800's ended the high heel trend for men because loyalty to the crown ended during the french revolution. The Victorian era, late 1800 to 1900, was only the beginning of women and high heels, partly because of the sewing machine meant easy stitching for sewing uppers into shoes. Heels were now females only. Women were now pictured in heels and considered sexy.

WWII and 50's trends reinforced the feminine trend of glamour and feminine heels. Christian Dior created the stiletto. It was a growing trend for everyday women.

The feminist movement lowered the heel in the 60's and 70's. Mary Janes and platforms became popular again around this time. You aren't seeing stilettos in Austin Powers movies, for example, but you are seeing stilettos.

Today's Trends

Today we see lots of high heels, but lots of low heels, too. We can choose our own style. I, personally, will wear them for cosplay and on formal occasions, but seldom do I wear them daily. I usually bring flats with me when I do wear them. Others wear them every day (Ouch, let's call Dr. Scholls!) or not at all. Do what you want.

Look up Kinky Boots on broadway, Max Klinger from MASH, or Rocky Horror Picture Show and we see men wearing them, once again, but for different reasons. Max Klinger is wearing them to get a section 8 (translation, to appear crazy and get an army discharge) and the other two examples are wearing them for reasons of sexuality and breaking the mold. Some men have worn them as a joke or for stage roles.

Their Effect On The Body

 A word of caution to those who wear them often; Stilettos strain your knees and ankles. Heels age joints faster. Lower back, neck, and shoulder pain is common because your body is put out of alignment. They force you to arch your back, and while this was once considered or still considered sexy to some, it makes you hurt more. 

It is actually suggested to do certain stretches after long periods of wearing heels. This includes this routine below. 

1. lay a book (1 inch spined) on floor

2. While standing, place ball of right foot on book and rest heel on ground

3. bend forward at waist, then try to grab toes on book (okay to bend knees slightly)

4. hold for 30 seconds

5. switch feet, repeat 2 to 3 times

6. gradually add an inch per week up to 3 inches

Also, high heels should fit snugly and firmly hold your foot. If you slide in them, you can cause blisters, bleeding feet, and toenail trouble. All painful. I realistically suggest Dr. Scholls products, in all seriousness, when wearing heels for the sake of comfort and safety.

Pictures:
Messy Nessy Chic
macleans.ca
teen vogue
vintage dancer
vocal
tumblr



Sources:
https://www.teenvogue.com/story/heels-history-men
https://www.image.ie/life/history-high-heels-117052
https://osteopathic.org/what-is-osteopathic-medicine/the-real-harm-in-high-heels/

The history of the bra and corset - women's fashion history

Most women wear bras, but when were they invented? Yes, men who didn't understand that underwire hurts invented some of them, but let's go deeper than that. Women invented bras, too.

Basic Designs

They began in the 14th Century with female Minoan athletes, otherwise, you didn't have one. The female athletes wore what now equals a tight tube top. Before that, well, let's hope your sheath dress covered everything and no one got handsy.

French 1500 Corset

From there we get corsets, harmful in my opinion, but considered high fashion for centuries. They became popular in 1500 France. Imagine an inverted cone that flattened your breasts and pushed them upward, maybe even spilling out of your dress. They were made of whalebone sometimes. They remained popular for four centuries because they shaped women into specific figures.

After that girdles became a thing in the late 19th Century. A girdle forced a curvy figure. It made your chest go forward and your hips go out. Curvy women were the thing and you could see the small of their back more often, as opposed to stiff corsets. Imagine an "S" like figure.

Corselet Gorge model

1869 was the year the corset split into two parts. The "corselet gorge", or the "well being", was basically a modern bra with a waist corset. 1905 they started selling the top by itself, with no waist corset.

In 1914 a woman invented the modern bra, or backless bra, with two silk handkerchiefs and pink ribbon. That patent was sold to Warner Brothers Corset Company, eventually. 

Up until the 1920s, there were minor adjustments for comfort, but no major shifts in design. 

Cup sizes were created in the 1930s, along with eyehooks and other adjustment straps. 

Trends

As most women know, fashion is a fickle, changing trend and has been for so long that some of us no longer care and do our own thing for our own comfort. Keeping that in mind, the bra has changed for that purpose since.

Bullet Bras -
the most flattering picture I could find

Without further ado, I present the 1920s trend of flat chests and flapper dresses. No corsets, just tight tops that created boyish shapes. 

1940s created a torpedo style, which has been nicknamed "bullet bras". The old movies are full of this, if you look close enough. (Frankly, it looks really bad. Let's not bring it back, ladies.) WWII was when this started. It claimed to offer protection on production lines during a time of women in the factories. Men, no surprise here, invented the padded bras that showed more cleavage in 1947.

The 1950s came with Marilyn Monroe, a woman I've mentioned before, who wore a sweater. That gave the appearance of larger breasts, a trend that didn't end. 1964 came soon after, making looking larger even more popular with the invention of push-up bras. 1967 made fancy designs popular with the premiere of the movie The Graduate, which included lace and printed designs on the main actress' lingerie.

Sports bras started in 1977. Fitness and sports were becoming a trend at this time, so women needed the support. "Jogbra" was just the start. We still use these in modern society. This year also began Victoria's Secret, now famous for a fashion show of mostly lingerie. It was created because bras made men uncomfortable in department stores, and women's' only stores were a relief to some men.

2009 revealed memory foam bras. Today you can find a lot of styles out there, from sports to training bras. All vary in support. You can even use paper or gel bras for strapless gowns. If any men are reading this, I am not blaming you for the invention of underwire, but I do say the person who invented it did not have any women in his life to test the comfort of it. That said, underwire has been used for support in bras. 

Corset Types

Queen Elizabeth I Corset

Corsets changed with fashion, as well, so let's dive into that by itself. We know what 1500 French corsets look like, but they weren't the first to use them. Minoans invented them before that, for both men and women, because they wanted to stop waist growth and have small waists. Women used them for support and it showed their breasts.

Queen Elizabeth I created a style of corset in the 16th Century that was less rigid and emphasized waist. Tudors had a style that was iron and for both genders. Italy liked wider hips and created a corset that created that image. 

19th Century was the start was less rigid corsets and more curves. Remember S shaped bodies? That goes here on the timeline. Also, women could put their own corset on when front-fastening became a trend, creating more independence. It followed the body curves and created comfort.

The Edwardian era, 1904 to 1911, was a redesign era and created less harmful corsets that didn't harm internal organs. It gave an upright posture. The idea of hourglass shape was started here, and so was the idea of corsets as lingerie. 

1912-1919 long corsets were the start of girdles. These ended below one's bust line and minimized the abdomen and hips. Some ended at your mid-thigh. The waist of the corset was just above the waist.

1920 Corset

Are there still more corset styles? Are we really still talking about this? Yes, believe it or not. We're at 1920 styles. War created looser shapes, with a lack of supplies towards fashion. Pin-ups show stockings and garters. Boyish was the trend, as well, so to achieve that corsets slimmed thighs and hips. Also available were "hip confiners" and "sports corsets". 

1930 and 1940 brought back hourglass shape. Full body corsets were popular. They had to get creative. War was still in session and fashion wasn't a high priority, so no zippers allowed and eye and hook were limited. Lace-up and elastic were the solution. 

1950's Spencer ad (Spencer
is a brand of girdle)

1950 was the girdle time period, where women were warned about not wearing one after childbirth and seen as less for not wearing one at all. Shape was important. Just look at the ads in the 50's and tell me how much body-shaming was aimed at bigger women. You'll find so much of it; it's a wonder women didn't combust between the stress of looking good and raising 2.5 kids! The war over and all, zippers were back and lace was out. 

Today it's mostly used for the stage, cosplay, and historical films. Some may buy them for support, still, but most of us don't use them except for costumes, or at all. With that, we are done with our history lesson. 

Pictures:
BT.com

History of Corsetry
wikipedia commons
scoopwhoop
new york post
pinterest

witness2fashion

Sources:

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/beauty/fashion/g1291/bra-history/
https://www.herroom.com/blog/the-history-of-the-bra-a-timeline/
http://tahliamckellartextiles.weebly.com/corset-timeline.html